RC AEROMODELLING GLOSSARY

This RC flying glossary contains some of the more common words and terms that you'll hear now and again when you're reading about rc airplanes, or you're down at the flying field.

We've kept it as non-technical and lighthearted as possible, and where appropriate there are links to relevant pages within this website where you can get more detailed information.

·                  2.4GHz - the frequency band of the newest, interference-free 'spread spectrum' digital rc systems.

·                  2 stroke - the most common type of glow plug engine for rc airplanes. The fuel/air mixture is drawn in, ignited and spat out with one single revolution of the piston inside the engine.

·                  4 stroke - the 2nd most common type of glow plug engine, much more suitable for larger and scale models because they sound more realistic. 4 stroke engines take 2 revolutions to do what a 2 stroke does in one, but this doesn't make them twice as lazy.

·                  3D - a complex form of aerobatic flying, usually with more than one maneuver being performed simultaneously. 3D airplanes have over-sized control surfaces, exaggerated control surface deflection and excess power for maximum performance and sensitivity.

·                  Aerobatic - any maneuver or series of maneuvers that involve stunts of any kind, such as loops, rolls and spins. An airplane that is capable of performing such stunts is said to be "fully aerobatic".

·                  Aeromodeling - the general term used to describe the hobby of building and flying model airplanes and aircraft. Aero modelers are the guys and gals that do it.

·                  Ailerons - the moving section of the trailing edge of the wing, located towards the outer end or they can be the whole length of the TE. Ailerons come in pairs, (left and right) and always work in opposite directions to each other (one up, one down). When used, they cause the airplane to roll to the left or right.

·                  Airfoil - the cross-section shape of a wing. Airfoils can be flat-bottomed, semi-symmetrical or symmetrical, depending on the style of airplane and what it needs to do. Also written as aerofoil, depending on which country you are in.

·

                  Altitude - the vertical distance between your rc airplane and the ground, usually expressed in feet (').

·                  Angle of Attack - the angle of the wing (when viewed from the end) in relation to the horizontal airflow when the airplane is flying. Nothing to do with your incoming trajectory when trying to cut the tail off your friend's model in aerial combat games.

·                  ARC - Almost Ready to Crash. An rc airplane or helicopter that knows something that the pilot is just about to find out.

·                  ARF / ARTF - Almost Ready To Fly. This one's a legitimate abbreviation. An ARF model airplane needs a few small finishing touches and you have to install the engine and radio gear yourself. They vary in degrees of completeness, from manufacturer to manufacturer.

·                  Attitude - not the obvious meaning, but in the flying world 'attitude' refers to the angle of the plane in relation to the horizontal eg "My plane had a very nose-down attitude, from which it would not recover..."

Well, in this case you could say that your plane had a 'very bad attitude'!

·                  Barrel roll - an aerobatic maneuver that involves the airplane following the twist of a large imaginary corkscrew (horizontal) through the air.

·                  Bind-N-Fly (BNF) - a trademark name for a range of Horizon Hobby distributed aircraft (namely ParkZone & E-flite) whereby the model is sold in RTF form but lacks the transmitter. A DSM2 compatible receiver is included though so you just, er, bind and fly.

·                  Brushless motor - type of electric motor used in rc electric aircraft. Brush less motors are much more powerful than traditional brushed motors, and are fast becoming the norm. They can be inrunner or out runner motors.

·                  Buddy Box - one of the best training aids, where the student's transmitters attached via cable to the instructor's. The student has complete control over the model, but at the flick of a switch the instructor can take control if the student gets into difficulties. Or just to be mean, funny or annoying.

·                  Bulkhead - the foremost former of your airplane, on to which the engine is mounted.

·                  Bungee launch - a method of launching rc gliders.

·                  Center of Gravity / CG - the airplane's point of fore-aft balance. As a very general rule of thumb it's found approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the leading edge of the wing and is built in during the design stage.

·                  Channel - 2 meanings for this in the rc world. First, it can be the number of channels 

that the model has, eg a 1 channel model may have just motoror rudder control while a 2 channel model will have motor and rudder, etc etc. Second, the channel number refers to the radio frequency which you're using.

·                  Chicken stick - a tough rubber sleeve that you put on your finger if starting the motor by hand to give essential protection from the propeller. It can also be a wooden/plastic stick with a rubber coating on one half that you use to flick over the prop, instead of using your finger.

·                  Control surface - the term used to describe the moving part of any flying surface ie rudder, elevator and ailerons are all control surfaces.

·                  Control surface mixing - when two control surface operations are performed by one pair of surfaces eg when aileron and elevator movement is combined into elevons.

·                  Channel mixing - when two or more channels are made to operate together with one transmitter stick movement eg rudder can be mixed with aileron, so that the rudder automatically deflects when the ailerons are moved.

·                  Crosswind - when the wind is blowing at, or approximately, 90 degrees to your line of flight, take off or landing.

·                  Crystal - the small component that determines which channel number you fly on. Both tx and rx need to have an identically matching crystal for the radio set to function. 2.4GHz spread spectrum sets don't require crystals.

·                  Dead stick - when your airplane's motor cuts out unexpectedly in mid-air. With any luck you'll have enough altitude to glide safely in for a nice landing, otherwise you may need to use your plastic bag.

·                  Differential aileron - when the ailerons are set up to move upwards more than downwards, to counteract any adverse yaw during a turn caused by extra drag on the outer wing from the down aileron.

·                  Dihedral - the upward angle of the wings when viewed from the front. An airplane with dihedral is more stable in the air than one without.

·                  Disorientation - when you lose sight of which way up your rc airplane is and what it's doing, either because it's too far away to see properly or because you've just flown it directly over your head and momentarily lost all visual reference to everything. Not much fun when it gets you.

·                  Drag - the force that is created by the movement of the airplane through the air, on the air immediately surrounding the plane. High drag means that the model has to work harder to cut through the air. Low drag, oddly enough, means the opposite.

A real drag is the term used to describe your flying day when it's not going to plan.

·                  DSM / DSM2 - a type of technology developed by Spectrum for their spread spectrum 2.4GHz rc systems. Stands for Digital Spectrum Modulation, the '2' just being the newer updated version of the original.

·                  Dual rates - a feature of many rc systems, whereby the control surface deflection can be reduced while still maintaining full movement of the transmitter sticks. With dual rates enabled, the airplane is less sensitive to control inputs.

·                  Electric starter - a glorified 12 volt electric motor with a special end cup that you place over the spinner to turn the motor over until it starts, hopefully. You can see one here

·                  Elevator - the moving section at the rear of the horizontal stabilizer, or tailplane, that controls the pitch attitude of the airplane.

·                  Elevons - when elevator and aileron control is made by the same control surface, this surface is called an elevon(s). Only possible with a mixing facility on the rc set.

·                  ESC - Electronic Speed Controller - the small unit that delivers the appropriate amount of power from the motor battery pack to the motor, depending on your input at the transmitter.

·                  FASST - Futaba's answer to Spectrum's DSM technology. Stands for Futaba Advanced Spread Spectrum Technology and uses warp-speed frequency hopping to ensure no breakdown of signal.

·                  Field box - a box that you take to the field. It contains all your flying accessories and tools, except the one thing that you need on the day when no-one else is at the field. You can see one here. Also often called a flight box, particularly when it gets kicked through the air just after you've written off your model.

·                  Field equipment - accessories and equipment that you take to the field in your field box. Apart from that one crucial thing...

·                  Fin - also called the vertical stabilizer, it's the vertical surface at the rear of the airplane used to stabilize the plane in flight.

·                  Flaps - moving sections of the trailing edge of the wing, usually found between the ailerons and fuselage. Used to create more lift at slower flying speeds and also to slow the plane on landing approach, flaps are usually only found on rc airplanes with 5 or more channels.

·                  Flaperons - a single control surface on the trailing edge of each wing that does the job of flaps and ailerons. An rc system with control mixing capability is needed to have flaperons.

·                  Flare - the action taken in the last few seconds of the landing approach, to reduce the approach angle and slow the rate of descent. Forgetting this crucial action may result in you needing your plastic bag.

·                  Frequency - all radio control gear works on frequencies. Best explained here.

·                  Fuel lock - when your glow engine gets flooded and the excess fuel inside the engine prevents you from being able to flick over the prop. It usually happens if you've over-primed the engine, and if you're starting the engine by hand you really know about it.

·                  Fuselage - the main body of an airplane, excluding wings, tail and everything else. Flying wings, oddly enough, don't have much in the way of a fuselage.

·                  Glow plug - sits in the top of the engine's cylinder head and contains an electrical filament that glows red hot to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber. Glow plugs have an uncanny habit of burning out on the one day that you've run out of spare ones, and no-one else is at the flying field.

·                  Glow plug igniter / starter - used to ignite the glow plug. Obviously.

·                  Gravity - the force that every rc airplane is trying to beat. RC pilots are often caught out when gravity decides to have some fun and suddenly increases its strength without warning. This common phenomenon is also known as pilot error or radio failure.

·                  Hand launch - the way to launch any flying model without an undercarriage. The model should be held level at head-height and launched into wind. A hefty shove is needed, but don't throw the model like a ball. Alternatively an under arm lob gets the job done, if you're feeling confident.

·                  Horizontal stabilizer - also called the tailplane. The horizontal surface at the back of the fuselage, to which the elevators are attached.

·                  Inrunner - a type of brushless motor where the permanent magnets and motor shaft rotates within the fixed stator, as in a normal brushed motor. Inrunners don't provide a lot of torque so usually need to be geared.

·                  Landing - the action of bringing your model safely back down to earth, hopefully keeping it in one piece. A good landing negates the use of the plastic bag.

·                  Landing gear - also called the undercarriage. Refers to all wheels and associated bits. Landing gear can be fixed or retractable up into the underside of the wing or fuselage (called 'retracts', usually only found on models with 5 channels or more).

·                  Leading edge - the front edge of the wing, tailplane or rudder.

·                  Lift - the force created by the forward motion of the airplane's wing or helicopter's rotor blades. Air pressure over the wing is less than the pressure below the wing and so the wing, along with the rest of the model, is pushed upwards.

·                  Li-Po - stands for lithium ion polymer battery. These are the most modern kind of battery pack being used in electric aircraft. They provide enormous amounts of power for their size, especially when used in conjunction with a brushless motor.

·                  Loop - an aerobatic maneuver whereby the airplane flies a vertical circle in the air. The easiest stunt of all to pull off, and any airplane with an elevator can do them. Just make sure you're not flying too close to the ground first...

·                  Mid-air - term used to describe the unfortunate incident of two or more aircraft making physical contact with each other while in flight. A mid-air collision can be very spectacular given the correct speeds and trajectories of each model, and all models involved in such a crowd-pleasing incident always end up going home in the plastic bag.

·                  Mixing - the ability to combine two different rc functions into one. See control surface mixing and channel mixing above.

·                  Mode 1 - refers to the set-up of the transmitter whereby the left stick operates the elevator and rudder, and the right stick operates the throttle and ailerons. Common in the UK.

·                  Mode 2 - refers to the set-up of the transmitter whereby the left stick operates the throttle and rudder, and the right stick operates the elevator and ailerons. Common in North America and much of the world.

·                  NiCD - abbreviation for nickel cadmium, a type of metal used in rechargeable battery cell production. Also written as 'nicads', they are a form of rechargeable battery cell used in radio control gear as well as motor battery packs. NiCDs are being used less and less these days, as NiMH and Li-Po batteries take over.

·                  NiMH - abbreviation for nickel metal hydride, the other type of material used in rechargeable batteries. They are the successors to NiCDs with much better performance and up to 3 times the capacity for an equally sized battery. Only Li-Pos top NiMHs.

·                  Nitro - short for nitro methane, or nitromethane, depending on who you believe. It's a principle ingredient of glow fuel and is crucial in keeping the fuel/air mixture burning inside the oxygen-starved combustion chamber of the engine.

·                  Non-scale - any model that is not modeled from a real-life airplane, helicopter or whatever.

·                  Outrunner - the other type of brushless motor, where the outer casing, or 'can', of the motor rotates with the shaft and permanent magnets, which are attached to the inside of the can. Outrunners produce more torque, so they are more powerful than inrunners and are rarelygeared.

·                  "Oh nooo" - hearing this term from an rc pilot usually indicates that his/her airplane isn't doing what he/she wants it to do. 'Oh nooo' soon changes into mixed swear words if the airplane's situation deteriorates.

·                  Park Flyer - the general name given to any electric rc airplane that can be safely flown in a public park / school yard / parking lot / sports field etc.

·                  Peg board - the most common form of frequency control used at rc flying clubs. Pilots must notify other pilots of which channel they are using by pushing a peg into a hole. Very high-tech.

·                  Pilot error - any mistake, particularly one that ends in a crash, made by the pilot for whatever reasons. Pilot error is never admitted to by the pilot in question. Instead, the incident is traditionally put down to radio failure, radio interference, unexplained gusts of wind, extra fast-growing trees, the strange phenomenon of the ground suddenly lifting upwards and getting in the way without warning, or gravity having some fun and suddenly increasing its strength.

·                  Pitch attitude - the upward or downward angle of the airplane in relation to the horizontal, when viewed from the side. Pitch is controlled by the elevators.

·                  Pitch - the angle of a wing, propeller blade or helicopter rotor in relation to the airflow over it. The pitch angle of a moving wing or blade is known as the Angle of Attack.

·                  Plastic bag - the thing used to take home the pieces that was once your beloved model aircraft, before you failed to keep it airborne at the wrong moment, or didn't manage to pull off the best of landings, or tried to perform an aerobatic maneuver too close to the ground...

RC pilots who have used plastic bags can be laughed at here.

·                  Plug-N-Play (PNP) - Ready To Fly models that are missing the transmitter and receiver, allowing the pilot to use his/her own.

·                  Power panel - a small central control box for all your electrical field equipment items, typically powered by a 12V battery.

·                  Pre-flight checks - essential checks that you need to carry out immediately before flight.Priming - the action of introducing fuel in to the engine prior to starting it. Over-priming often causes fuel lock.

·                  Propeller - the thing at the front of the airplane. It spins round very fast when the motor is running. Propellers have been known to eat the fingers of careless rc pilots who hand start their motor without the use of a chicken stick. Props will fly off at an alarming speed, if the securing nut hasn't been tightened properly.

·                  Prop - abbreviation for propeller.

·                  Radio failure - very occasionally this happens, but the uncontrollable actions of the model are usually down to pilot error, not that they'd ever admit to it.

·                  Radio interference - when two (or more) identical, or close, frequencies are being used at the same time the radio signals will mix together, so your model's receiver won't know which ones to respond to. Radio interference is also a good cover-up for pilot error. 2.4GHz rc systems pretty much eliminate radio interference altogether.

·                  Radio signals - the invisible messages that pass from transmitter to receiver, telling the model what to do. OK until someone turns on a transmitter of the same frequency...

·                  Range check - an essential pre-flight check to test the operation of your rc gear.

·                  RC or R/C - abbreviation for Radio Control. Often you'll see 'remote control', but 'radio control' is the technically correct term.

·                  RC flight simulator - a home computer based training aid that lets you practice flying radio control from the safety and comfort of your house. Excellent for novice rc pilots, particularly those looking at flying rc helicopters. More details here.

·                  Receiver - part of the radio control gear that lives inside the model and picks up the radio signals sent out by the transmitter.

·                  Retracts - abbreviation for 'retractable undercarriage', which is an undercarriage that folds up into the airplane's wings or fuselage after take off. They work most of the time, but sometimes they decide not to re-appear just when you need them the most.

·                  Roll - the rotational movement of an airplane about its longitudinal axis. Also an aerobatic maneuver whereby the airplane is rolled about its longitudinal axis through 360 degrees, while trying to keep the thing in a straight line.

·                  RTC - Ready To Crash. RTC models are in the throws of making unplanned air to ground contact, and nothing can be done to prevent it. Usually a result of pilot error, but never admitted to.

·                  RTF - Ready To Fly. RTF models can be assembled in minutes, usually it's a case of just strapping on the wing. RTFs are very popular these days.

·                  Rudder - the moving section on the back half of the fin. Used to control the airplane's yaw.

·                  Rx - abbreviation for receiver.

·                  Scale - any model that has been modeled from a real aircraft, such as a Piper Cub or P-51 Mustang for example.

·                  Semi-scale - any model that is loosely based on a real aircraft, with maybe a few details left out or proportions changed.

·                  Servo - the part of the radio control gear that converts the radio signal into movement.

·                  Servo reverse - a feature on rc systems whereby the direction of the servo horn movement can be reversed, if the builder has been daft enough to install the servo the wrong way round.

·                  Slow Flyer - different name for Park Flyer. Or a model that is experiencing engine problems, or a very strong headwind.

·                  Spin - an aerobatic maneuver whereby the airplane is flown vertically down towards the ground, while being made to roll. Easy to get into one but not always so easy to get out of, especially when the airplane-to-ground distance has been badly judged. In this instance, you will need to use the plastic bag.

·                  Spinner - the plastic cone-shaped piece that covers the center of the propeller. Planes without spinners never quite look complete...

·                  Sport airplanes - a general term for model airplanes that can be used for training on but are also capable of aerobatic maneuvers, whether intentional or not.

·                  Spread spectrum - the latest technology for radio control systems. Based on the 2.4GHz frequency band, spread spectrum radio systems are virtually interference-proof.

·                  Stall - any flying model will stall when the flying speed gets too low and the necessary amount of lift needed to hold the model in the air is lost. Getting to know your model's stalling speed by reducing throttle and applying up elevator at the same time is a very good idea, but don't practice too close to the ground if you want to avoid using the plastic bag.

·                  Stall turn - an aerobatic maneuver whereby the airplane is put into a vertical climb, power is reduced and full rudder is applied. The airplane should stop in mid-air and turn through 180 degrees, thus facing the ground, in the direction that the rudder was applied. And don't forget to pull out of the ensuing dive.

·                  Straight and level - when your rc airplane is flying in a straight line, with no fluctuation in altitude. A well trimmed airplane should fly straight and level with the tx sticks in their central positions.

·                  Take off - the action of accelerating your airplane along the ground until flying speed is reached, and the thing gets airborne. Only suitable for models with an undercarriage, otherwise you're limited to hand launching.

·                  Taildragger - an airplane that has 2 main wheels and a small tailwheel. Taildraggers have a habit of going round in circles on the ground when you're learning how to take off.

·                  Tailplane - see horizontal stabilizer.

·                  Tail wind - when the wind is blowing in the same direction as your plane is flying, taking off or landing. Flying with a tail wind not only increases the plane's airspeed, but also its stalling speed, and that's never good.

·                  Thrust - the force that is generated by the spinning propeller or fan/turbine of the airplane, and pushes/pulls the model through the air.

·                  Trailing edge - the rear edge of the wing, tailplane or rudder.

·                  Trainer - any rc airplane that has been designed for learning to fly on. Usually trainers are high wing, with plenty of dihedral..

·                  Transmitter - the main part of the radio control system that you hold in your hands while trying to control your model airplane.

·                  Trimming - the action of getting your model to fly straight and level, with the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions and no input from you.

·                  Tricycle undercarriage - a fixed undercarriage that consists of 2 main wheels and a nose wheel, which is sometimes connected to the rudder servo for easier ground handling. Often abbreviated to 'trike'.

·                  Tx - abbreviation for transmitter.

·                  Undercarriage - see landing gear.

·                  Vertical stabilizer - see fin.

·                  Windsock - a large material cone-shaped tube, mounted on a tall pole at the flying field, that indicates the direction of the wind. Important because rc airplanes need to be taken off and landed into wind where possible.

·                  Wing - come on, seriously??

·                  Wing loading - a calculation that is useful when determining certain flight performance characteristics of a plane, the figure is obtained by dividing the flying weight of the airplane by the total wing area. A plane with large wings relative to its weight will have a lower wing loading, which means better lifting capacity but not so great high speed performance, and vice versa. Wing loading values are given in oz/sq.ft (ounces per square foot).

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RC Planes - A Guide to Getting Started

Welcome to the world of Radio Control Planes!Ground school for new pilots. With a new generation of slow, very easy to set up and fly models at our fingertips, many new modelers are discovering the joy of radio control (RC). For the newcomer, these smallish, backyard-flyer designs have eliminated the necessity of traveling to a local club's flying field where larger, more complicated RC model airplanes are required to fly. We can now fly at almost any convenient field, whether it is a local baseball diamond, a schoolyard, or a soccer field. If you have a fairly large yard, the fun of RC flying can be right outside your kitchen door! But learning how and where to fly safely requires a bit of knowledge and some new terminology. The following highlights some of the considerations that might not be obvious to the fledgling modeler. What makes a good trainer?  If you've never flown an RC model airplane before, you might be tempted to buy one that has a lot of visual appeal, such as a scale model or an advanced sport flyer. Though many of those types of kits are fairly easy to assemble, the models can be very difficult to fly if you have no previous experience. Your first plane should be a good trainer—something to cut your teeth on before moving up the performance ladder. A lot of excellent trainers are available. Here are some basic things to consider when deciding which one is right for you. Reparability The simple truth is that your first—and maybe your second—airplane will be damaged in the course of your learning how to fly. Knowing this, you should look for a trainer that has relatively few parts that can be easily repaired if they are broken. Wood and foam are high on the easy-to-fix list; molded plastic is more difficult to repair. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, e.g., Crazy Glue and epoxy are the most common adhesives used for gluing wood parts together, and aliphatic resin, Elmer's white glue, is excellent for gluing foam pieces back together.Parts availability Sometimes it will be easier to replace damaged parts than to fix them. Try to select a model that has replacement parts readily available from the manufacturer. Some model kits come with extra wings just in case you damage one beyond repair. Parts such as motors, batteries and speed controls get damaged or worn out, so be aware that you can simply replace these parts instead of having to buy a new model. Stability Some trainers are easier to fly than others. Talk to people who have different kinds of models and find out how stable their models are. A good indicator of how stable and, thus, how easy a model will be to fly is how much wing dihedral it has and how long the tail moment is. If the model has a fair amount of dihedral angle (5 or more degrees) and the tail is fairly long, it will fly more stably and smoothly, and this will make it easier to learn how to control it. Control setup Before you buy a model, check its control setup. Some trainers have rudimentary controls that offer only a little control-surface deflection. Others have a more standard primary-control setup that gives you complete rudder, throttle and elevator control. More advanced designs also have aileron control. For your first couple of models, however, primary control is all you'll need. Accessory equipment Finally, check to see whether the model you like comes with all the equipment you'll need to fly it. In the long run, it is less expensive to get everything in one package. Your kit should include all the materials needed to completely assemble the model: a motor, a propeller, an ESC, a battery pack and a battery charger. Some of the more complete kits also come with a radio system that includes the transmitter, a receiver, servos and a switch harness that will turn the radio on and off. Starting out with all the equipment you'll need to assemble your model plane is the best way to get airborne. What's Involved? To be successful with RC flying, you have to evaluate several elements: the type of model that interests you, the area where you plan to fly and, of course, yourself as the pilot. Let's look at what's involved.   Types of models. Perhaps the most difficult part of the hobby is choosing which airplane to buy. So many planes are available today that it's easy to get confused. Backyard-flyer models fall into three basic groups: builder's kits, where the airplane has to be built; almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) kits that require only a little assembly; and ready-to-fly (RTF) kits that require almost no assembly. A benefit of RTFs is that they are often available as a package deal that includes all the required hardware and radio gear. The basic builder's kits are less expensive than ARF or RTF kits but require the additional purchases of model glue, basic tools, covering material and the power system and radio gear. If you enjoy building things and are looking for a project that will last a few weeks, then this is for you. You should be comfortable reading a plan and following instructions. You'll need a designated small work area with a table or workbench; cutting and gluing the pieces that make up an RC model can be a little messy, so it shouldn't be done on the kitchen table. ARFs are basically kit airplanes that have been partially built and covered for you. The fuselage, the wing halves and the tail surfaces come ready to be joined. After you've glued or bolted the tail surfaces to the fuselage and assembled the wing, you'll only have to install the radio gear and the power system. The wing halves are often joined with a metal joiner rod or a brace, so you won't even have to glue the panels together. You simply slide the joiner into a slot or a hole in the wing root, and then slide the panels together. The rubber bands that hold the wing to the fuselage prevent the panels from coming apart. This makes transporting and storing your new airplane a bit easier. With some ARFs, the motor and the servos come already installed. Simply connect the control linkage, and you're ready to go. RTFs are very popular because there's little to do but charge the battery, strap the wing into place, and turn the radio on. These very durable models are often made of formed plastic and rigid foam. Some RTFs come with conventional controls (rudder and elevator), while others have more rudimentary controls that simply turn the plane left or right. Some feature throttle control, while others have an uncomplicated arming switch that turns the motor on and runs it until the rechargeable battery's power has been used up. Several newer designs even come with spare props and wings so you don't have to go back to the hobby shop if you break something. Regardless of your modeling experience level, there are several backyard flyers to choose from. Stop at a local hobby shop, and see what best suits your fancy. Basic equipment. To assemble most builder's kits and ARFs, you will need some basic shop tools. These include: small flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, a hobby knife with several new blades, long-nose pliers, an Allen-wrench set, a small adjustable wrench and sandpaper. For some of the more involved models, where you'll need to install the motor and electronic speed control (ESC), you should have a small, 30W soldering tool, some soldering flux and 60/40 rosin-core solder. Most models come with instructions that specify the supplies and tools required to build the model. To save time and effort in the long run, check the instructions and get all your equipment together before you start building your model. Flight Simulators A very good learning tool for any RC pilot is an RC flight simulator computer program. Advances in personal computers and microprocessors have enabled simulators (sims) to evolve to a very high degree of realism. Although not a total replacement for real-world flight training, virtual training in the comfort of home does help teach the student pilot's thumbs and eyes to work together. Because of his practice at home, when the student goes to the flying field and has a radio in his hands, he will react more quickly. Less “think time” means more time to correct for piloting errors. Another advantage of flight sims is that they extend the flying season for those who live in cooler climates. You can “fly” all winter long and never leave the house. Several flight sims are available, and they all work roughly in the same way. The sim presents a model airplane image on the computer screen, and the plane reacts to your control inputs. Some sims come with a control box that looks very much like an RC transmitter; other systems provide an interface that lets you connect and use your own radio. You can choose from several models provided by the program, or you can create new models or represent your own. Most sims offer a choice of flying environments, so you can fly from a typical flying field, the surface of Mars, or anywhere in between. Also, you can adjust weather elements such as wind direction, crosswind velocity and gusts. You can make the flight simulation as easy or as difficult as you like. Most programs also include a few helicopter simulations. By training yourself with a flight sim, you can greatly reduce the time it will take for you to learn how to fly your model. You can also continue to fly even when the weather isn't cooperating. Bring the excitement of RC flight indoors and have fun. Before Flight Training There are some basic things you'll need to know after you've built your model and have made sure that everything is working properly. Let's call it “Before flight training.” If you have just built your first backyard flyer, the best way to learn how to fly is by asking an experienced friend to teach you. If, however, you want to learn to fly by yourself, here are some things to be aware of. Radio frequency. The radio that controls your model is on a specific frequency, and when you switch it on, it transmits a continuous signal. If someone else is using the same frequency as you are, the two radios will interfere with each other and cause both of you to lose control. Before you go out and fly, you should make sure you are at least three miles away from an established RC model flying field. You can ask the people at the local hobby shop whether there is a field nearby, or you can check with the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) at www.modelaircraft.org for a list of RC clubs in your state. Flight direction. Up and down are easy; no matter in which direction your model is heading, up will always be up and down will be down. Left and right are another matter. When you and your model are both facing in the same direction (i.e., the model is flying away from you), your left and right will be the model's left and right. If you move the stick to the right, your model will turn right and so on. But when the model is facing toward you, i.e., flying back toward you, its directions, relative to your stick command, will feel as though they have been reversed. When you push the stick to the right, the model will turn to its right, but that will be to your left! This is known as “returning control reversal,” and if you are not prepared for this condition, it will claim your new model. If we don't turn the model, it will soon be out of sight. To keep your model in the flying area, you have to think constantly about which way you want to turn your model. Holding the turn too long or turning in the wrong direction will cause it to spiral into the ground. When the model is coming toward you, pushing the stick toward the side with the lower wingtip will level the wings and prevent the turn from becoming so tight that you get confused. Wind. The direction and strength of the wind have a great effect on your model. It's best to fly early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the wind is generally at its calmest, and this gentle air is good for beginners. Look at the trees around your flying area and note how much the wind causes the leaves and branches to sway. Is there a flagpole nearby? How much is the flag waving in the breeze? In a heavy wind, you may find you have no control at all over the model and it may be carried away by the wind. For your first few flights, the less wind, the better. Launch. Always launch the model into the wind. Face into the wind and hold the model above and slightly in front of you. Launch it by taking a few quick steps and lightly tossing it into the wind with its wings level. Release it with its nose pointing at the horizon or slightly below it. Don't throw it upward at a high angle; it will stall and lose lift. Landing. When flying, try to keep the model upwind from you. If you allow it to get too far downwind, at the end of its flight, it may not have enough power for you to bring it back to land. When it is time to land, keep the wings level and land straight into the wind. Throttle back and allow the model to descend gradually; don't dive toward the ground, or you'll increase the model's speed and make it difficult to land gently. Just as the model is about to touch down, gently apply up-elevator to keep its nose up slightly. Downwind and crosswind landings are difficult and may cause you to damage the model when it touches the ground. Whenever possible, land into the wind, not going with it. Landing upwind allows the model to settle onto the ground gently. Your flying area. It may seem obvious, but you really need to evaluate the size and condition of the area in which you want to fly your model. Do you want to fly it in your backyard or at a local park? Is there a school nearby with a wide-open soccer field that's calling your name? The size of your flying area will dictate the size of the model airplane that can be safely flown there. Here's why: The size of your model and how much it weighs will affect how quickly or slowly it can fly. Its speed then affects how quickly you can turn it, and the turning radius determines the size of the airspace you need. Yes, I said airspace—not the size of the field. Models can fly great distances away from you, and you could fly it so far away that it would be difficult to see and to control. Look for a flying site that allows you to keep the model close without your running it into trees or buildings. And for safety reasons, don't fly it over a road with traffic. Most backyard flyers have small landing gear and wheels, so they can't taxi and take off from the ground. For this reason, you'll have to hand-launch the model (or have a friend hand-launch it for you). After the model has used up its battery charge, it's time to land. Small models can take off from hard, paved surfaces such as large parking lots, but remember that if you crash your model into a hard surface, it's more likely to be damaged. The safest areas to fly from are grass fields; tall grass is also great, especially if you're teaching yourself how to fly. Tall grass will cushion the model when it lands and could prevent it from being damaged in a hard return to earth. Establish a “flightline.” When flying in an open field, it's good practice to define an imaginary safety line that helps separate your model from the people who are watching you fly. Don't fly the model in a circle around you; keep the model's flight path in front of you, and have observers stay behind you. This gives an added margin of safety for everyone. Small, slow, lightweight models. These can easily be flown in an area that's roughly the size of a baseball diamond. This is the minimum area in which to fly a model safely. Compare your backyard or a nearby vacant lot to a Little League diamond, and ask yourself whether you can safely fly there. You should be able to hand-launch the model and fly a circular course or a figure-8 pattern. If your model is very light and agile, you will, in time, be able to fly it between trees and over fences, but in the beginning, make sure your flying area is clear of obstructions. Slightly heavier models. Because they fly a little faster, these planes will need an area that's roughly the size of the baseball diamond and the outfield. Sporting complexes often have two diamonds in one field, and this is ideal. Of course, you'll have to wait for a time when the home team is not practicing or striking out the visitors. If you're lucky enough to have a backyard this big or you live near a vacant lot, you're all set. Please, don't fly your model over other people; it can be distracting and is definitely unsafe. Bigger and faster models. These models should be flown in a football field or a soccer field. Typically, you should stand on the 50-yard line so you have a lot of space all around you. Large local parks may have this much open area, but regardless of where you fly, before you throw your model into the air, ask someone whether or not you can do so. It's the polite thing to do. People who are walking dogs and kids who are playing nearby are all attracted to model airplanes, so be aware of what's going on around you. Let people know you're out there; be seen and have fun. Before you fly Well, you're almost there; you've built and prepared your model and you've found a great place to fly it close to home. Is there anything left to do before that first flight? Yes; you should be aware of a few details that can make the difference between your having a great flight and a bad one. Let's see what's left. Balance. Did you balance your model? Did you check to see whether the model's center of gravity (CG) is in the proper location? Every airplane kit instruction booklet should explain where the balance point should be. For a straight wing, this point will usually fall somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 of the chord back from the leading edge (LE). With a sweptback wing, the CG will be farther rearward; again, check the instructions. To check the model's balance point, install the receiver (RX) and the battery pack and attach the wing to the fuselage. Support the wing with your fingertips—near the fuselage sides—and test the model's balance; move the receiver and battery until it balances level or slightly nose down. This is the balance point, and it should match that specified on the instructions. If it doesn't, try moving the RX and battery again; if that doesn't work, add a little weight to the nose or the tail until the model balances where it should. This is vital. A nose-heavy model will probably fly satisfactorily, but a tail-heavy one might not be controllable. Control direction. One of the most common causes of a first-flight crash is that a model has its controls hooked up backward. Test your controls to make sure that they don't bind and that they move the control surfaces (rudder, ailerons, etc.) in the proper directions. Turn the transmitter (TX) on first and then turn on your model's RX. Make sure the TX's trim levers are centered, and check the control surfaces to make sure that they are straight and in their neutral positions. While facing in the same direction as your model, move the control stick to the right; the rudder should also move to the right. If your plane has ailerons, when you move the stick to the right, the right aileron should move up and the left aileron should move down. When you pull the elevator stick back toward you, the elevator should move upward; it should move downward when you push the stick away from you. This is also a good time to check the throttle and to make sure that the motor is turning in the correct direction. When the throttle is pulled all the way back, the prop should not move. As you push the throttle stick forward, the prop should respond proportionally and should blow air back over the model. If your airplane has only an arming switch (no throttle), make sure the prop spins in the right direction (counterclockwise when looked at from the nose of the plane). Warping. Having assembled the model, make sure that the wing panels are straight—no twisting or warping. Look at each wing panel from the tip to the root (toward the fuselage), and make sure their angles match. If one tip has more positive or negative angle than the other does, your model will try to turn in one direction or the other. To fix a warped wing panel, gently twist it into the opposite position, and then have a helper use a heat gun or a high-wattage hair dryer to remove the wrinkles in the covering. When the covering has cooled and the wrinkles have disappeared, release the panel, and it should be straight. Check to make sure that the tail surfaces are also free of warps and that the wing and horizontal stabilizer are properly aligned. That's about it. Make sure your RX and drive batteries are fully charged and that the TX batteries are also in peak condition. Check the little light indicator or the meter on the TX face and make sure your radio system is working properly. Have fun.

RC planes for beginners into aeromodelling

Here is what beginners should start off with (in serial order):

1. Static Planes: Planes, which don't fly, but will help you get the hold of sanding and assembling.
2. Chuck Gliders: These are planes which fly, but with the help of a throw or a rubber band. These are small and easy to make and will help you to understand the basics of flight.
3. Control Line Planes: Now these are motor-powered planes which only fly in a circular path with the help of a metallic/cloth line attached from one wing and one end is with you. These planes are fun to make and fly.
4. Free Flight Gliders: These are as the name suggests planes on which you have no control over. One of the most toughest kind of planes to make, these depend on your assembly skill and aeronautical knowledge.
5. R/C Planes and Helicopters: Yes, this is the final stage. You should reach this stage in a year or two depending on your interest and time. Indian models of this kind are not very reliable and pilot friendly, so I suggest you order these kinds of planes from sites like hobbico and great planes.

Yes, they'll leave your wallet thinner no doubt, but the experience would be amazing

glider basics

robo followers.............!!!!

Guys, this is the list of components for making a line follower robot.the whole components are available at shop no. 595,594,opp.to 595 Everest electronics.
ENGINEERING PRINCIPAL USED - Mechanical engineering,electronics engineering, computer science engineering)

MECHANICAL PARTS
One chassis of 25cm*25 cm ,no restriction on height.Two inbuilt helical geared motors of 200-250 rpm.
pair of nuts and bolts
one castor wheel

SOFTWARE
for those who want to do their coding in C use KEIL software.
for those who want to do their coding in Assembly language use IDE(Integrated development environment)
8051 Burner including( USB channel 2.0) .
USB cable
laptop/desktop

ELECTRONICS COMPONENT

COMPONENTS REQUIRED FOR MCU(micro-controller) or 8051 module
IC AT89S52(40 PINS)
One crystal of 11.0592 MHz(used to generate pulse)
2 -30pf capacitor(used across xtal)
1-104 milor capacitor(ceramic)
1-1000 micro farad(capacitor)(used in rectifier)
2-10 micro farad capacitor(used across voltage regulator)1-7805 voltage regulator(12-0-5)rating(convert 12 v to 5 v)
4-diode IN4007(use in rectifier)
1-10k resistance
1-10k pull up register(either 9 pins or 10 p
4-birgstrip
1-zero board

COMPONENTS REQUIRED FOR H-BRIDE(To drive motor)

IC L293D(16 PINS)
4-10K Resistance
2-1k Resistance
2-LED (GREEN AND RED)
1-zero board

COMPONENTS REQUIRED FOR SENSOR

1-220 Ohm Resistance
1-IR pair(transmitter and receiver)
1-zero board

COMPONENTS REQUIRED FOR OP-AMP

IC LM324N(14 PIN)
IC base
4-LED(RED)
4-1 K Resistance
4-22 k Resistance
10k variable Resistance(potentiometer)
1-zero board

NOTE /- PLZ BUY IR(TRANSMITTER AND RECEIVER FROM PLC)
BECAUZ SHOPS MAY SOMETIMES CONTAINS DEFECTIVE PIECES)

---------------For Robo luvers (BEAT THE LINE )
FOR ANY QUERIES
CONTACT COORDINATORS.(vivek and yogesh)...........